Lingerie That Lingers

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Vintage Design Technique ~ Honeycooler Handmade

May 19, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flashforward/ Flashback – Honeycooler Makes Classic Lace Applique Techniques Modern

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Flashback:  The foundation of applique techniques are rooted in stitching and cutting away. This Vintage slip would’ve been sewn and the lace appliqued and cut away before finishing touches like florets and straps were added.

Flashforward: This stunning work of layered appliques in the Geraldine Deco cami requires lots of precise stitching and cutting, leaving sheer panels within a gossamer tank, working together to create a stunning geometric pattern

I noticed a new trend I will highlight more in coming posts- there are more and more designers turning to classic or “vintage” techniques to set their designs apart. Techniques like applique have for the most part been relegated to the vintage vault or to exclusive luxury brands, mostly because they require a large amount of “needle work”. Unlike print or silhouette these techniques are not cost effective enough to be utilized in mass production so you see it in its most artful forms in luxury brands.

Applique takes on a whole new life when approached with simple and modern aesthetics of an indie brand. We saw an example with Knickerocker last week and now I’m bringing you a brand that exemplifies the trend, Honeycooler Handmade

This is just the tip of the iceberg as there even more stunning examples of how truly modern this technique can read if done correctly.

Flashback: One of the most classic applique designs in vintage pieces is the BOW, This lovely vintage slip via Slip of a Girl  has them circling the hem and higher on the leg.

Flashforward:  Pared down in the Doris Deco cami, Honeycooler Handmade creates a striking and graphic use of the classic bow applique through use of color and placement. By making it the focal point for the piece the “V” lace window directs your attention down to the bow below.

 

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All Tied Up ~ Knickerocker

May 12, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flashforward/ Flashback – Knickerocker Rocks The Classic Applique Bow

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Remember my post about Trompe L’oeil in reference to Schiaperelli a while back? Here is a perfect example in both vintage and modern lingerie.  Bows that are not bows in function or really in any way other than “shape”.

Flashback: Classic 1930’s girdle from the McCord Museum’s archives features a gorgeous example of trompe l‘oeil applique in a pink satin on lighter pink ground.

Flashforward: Knickerocker’s edgy and vintage inspired stretch lace hi waist in lovely contrasting lace colors, plays up the applique and the cheeky attitude with the bows back placement. Styled in an uber-vintage pink bathroom its almost hard to tell its not a vintage piece!

 

 

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Modern Vintage ~ Kiss Me Deadly

May 5, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flashforward/ Flash back – Jill St John and Kiss Me Deadly Rock the Petal Bra Silhouette

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Flashforward: I don’t think you can talk about modern vintage inspired lingerie without thinking of Kiss Me Deadly. With everything from her images to her silhouettes oozing that timeless glamour and capturing the classic pinup silhouette her designs are also relevant in their functionality and use of modern materials that fit women’s lifestyles today. Her petal shaped bra above is so classic and yet so modern.

Flashback: Digging back I found this wonderful reference that KMD’s bra calls to mind, Jill St John wore this alluring sheer robe with black petal lace bra underneath in the 1963 romp “Who’s Been Sleeping In My Bed”, perhaps setting … Read more

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Dottie’s Delights Channels Liz

April 28, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flash Forward Flash Back – Lessons in Sheer Ruffles from Dottie, Mosh, and Liz Taylor

No matter how many times I look at these images I have to double take, which is vintage?

Flashforward: This Dottie’s Delights authentically vintage “Frou Frou” nylon robe with ruffled hem is a delightful boudoir confection. Whether it’s that nylon chiffon or Mosh and photographer Todd Crawford’s capturing the mood of vintage photos, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more stunning replica of a classic vintage silhouette.

Flashback:  There are lots of ruffled robes in the vintage archives of intimate fashion. Not many match up to Dottie’s modern take, but this photo of Liz Taylor in a diaphanous ruffled robe is alluring enough to be a … Read more

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Dottie’s Delights Takes on Bettie Paige

April 21, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flashforward/ Flashback – Dottie’s Delights Schools Modern “Bettie’s”

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Flashback: Provocative poses made Bettie Paige an icon of sexual revolution. Then there was also that jet-black hair and matching black lingerie set with hi-waist garter with stockings and heels that still make a Bettie today.

Flashforward: If Bettie Paige were alive, she would most definitely be wearing this Dottie’s Delights Millie collection, reminiscent of so many of the designs she made memorable.… Read more

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Mary Green takes on Marilyn

April 7, 2013

By Layla L’Obatti

Flashforward/ Flashback ~ Mary Green having a Marilyn Inspired moment

Mary Green Lingerie inspired by Marilyn Monroe photographed by P Halsman on Lingerie Briefs

Flashback: Marilyn lounging in a sheer black tulle/chiffon negligee in this 1952 photo by P Halsman.

Flashforward: This simple yet stunning number from Mary Green with its inset panels and godets, makes that Marilyn era glamour accessible to the modern woman

 … Read more

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The Kestos Bralette Roars Back

February 4, 2013

By Layla ‘Obatti

I started noticing a trend, and not a subtle one among indie designers. We’ve mentioned the strap details of the Bordelle corset and their possible origins, and a myriad of other modern lingerie looks that seem to reference styles from the 20’s through 50’s, but I was so surprised when I saw these vintage Kestos ads on pinterest and immediately connected them to their modern day counterparts. They saw what’s old is new and these three indie labels have breathed new life into this signature style with different materials and styling. The result is a silhouette that although inherited from previous generations is remarkably modern and fresh for a new generation.

 

Hopeless Lingerie’s Death Collection & Lillian Bassman’s Photo of Kestos Read more

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Layla L’obatti

Lingerie That Lingers

 

About the author:
 
Layla L’obatti is the designer and founder of Between the Sheets Lingerie where she designs two lines of luxury intimates sold in upscale boutiques around the world. Previously she worked as a lingerie designer for the intimates licenses of Tommy Hilfiger and Nicole Miller as well as another successful line of boutique lingerie, Tra la la.
 
An avid lingerie lover, Layla herself has a vintage lingerie collection as well as a ever growing library of fashion and lingerie books to feed her intimate knowledge of fashion and the history of undergarments.