The Ultimate Tastemaker ~ Sophie of Saks

 by Marina Rybak

Just a few days ago I was walking along Fifth and have noticed the mannequins, peeking through the glare of the Saks Fifth Avenue windows. I sensed, that there was something extraordinary and  “old world” beautiful about them.  Upon closer inspection and in a split second I had a quick fashion history lesson.  Saks was showcasing one of their own designers – Sophie Gimbel or plainly known for the half of the 20th century as Sophie of Saks.

Saks Fifth Avenue and Parsons School of Design have collaborated on the exhibit, which has brought from the obscurity into the spotlight once again the rich legacy of the pioneering champion of the American Couture.  Sophie Gimbel: Fashioning American Couture is on view at the New School at the Sheila C. Johnson Design Center through February 12.

A stylish tastemaker of her time, Sophie Gimbel was at the helm of the made–to-measure Salon Moderne on the second floor of Saks Fifth Avenue from 1929 to 1969.  She has set in place the foundation blocks of the American fashion, while she was focusing on the functional, refined luxury with impeccable attention to the detail and craftsmanship. Worn by the A-list celebrities and the social elite, Sophie’s originals were masterfully constructed by the skilled artisans on premises in the Saks Fifth Avenue workshops.  And her daily afternoon fashion shows became the upscale hub to catch up on the latest and be seen.

On the side note – if you ever want to time-travel and pretend to be a part of that fashion show audience, you may want to watch a Technicolor segment from the 1939 Hollywood classic “The Women”.  Adrian designed the film’s “Fifth Avenue” fashion show. Sophie Gimbel created the Broadway version.