By MARIACRISTINA RIGHI
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Xphemism
A real ‘fil rouge’ linked many underwear collections for autumn-winter 2025/26 on show at the Salon International de la Lingerie with two exhibitions, taking place on the same days in Paris.
The Soul Trembles by Chiharu Shiota
At the Grand Palais, The Soul Trembles, the great retrospective of the Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota, attracted long queues of visitors.
Tree of Life by Ernesto Neto
On the second floor of Le Bon Marché department store the fashionistas took off their shoes to enter the Tree of Life, knitted by the Brazilian sculptor Ernesto Neto for the Carte Blanche 2025 (Le La Serpent).
Xphemism & work of Chiharu Shiota
And at Paris Expo-Porte de Versailles in Hall 3 the threads of bras, panties and stockings were intertwined. Very far from the old bondage concept, these styles come closer more often to the fragility of life and nature, which are held together by a very thin thread. Or they are caught in a net, that can protect but also capture.
DnuD
The art of entanglement of The Soul Trembles explores notions of temporality, movement and the vulnerability of life. The exhibit incorporates big installations of interlacing wool yarn as well as incredibly intricate webs of all black yarns. They are very close to the entanglements, intertwining and crossing designs found in many underwear collections showcased at the Salon International de la Lingerie. The focus of both presentations is centered on the body. For example, the nets we can see in some DnuD, Chantelle and Antigel bras or the intersections created by Mon Tiroir and Paloma Casile.
Mon Tiroir
Ernesto Neto creates works that appeal to all senses. His XXL textile sculptures are handmade in his atelier in Rio de Janeiro with natural materials such as cotton, wood and spices. They reconnect human beings to nature, inviting viewers to experiment freely with their bodies and emotions.
Xphemism and Palomo Casile
We can find the same inspiration in the thin threads which run over the bodies wearing Xphemism bustiers and Yuvi Kawano coordinates. There is a strong connection with nature in the weaves of the Aubade and Atelier Amour coordinates or in the golden reliefs of Edge O’ Beyond.
Edge of Beyond & Atelier Amour
Chantelle
Yuvi Kawano
Antigel
Aubade
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