Briefs

By ELLEN LEWIS

Cadolle Lingerie photographed by Stephanie Hynes for Lingeire Briefs

In the study of French lingerie I would be hard pressed to not mention the House of Cadolle. Founded on the premise that well-being as well as seduction is the underpinning to female empowerment, the company has, for 130 years, been dedicated to serving women. Birthed in 1889 when founder Hermione secured the first bra patent at the Paris World Exhibition, this eponymous brand has been led by 6 generations of Cadolle women. Revolutionary in its day, it is still a bastion of feminine independence; “dedicated to the service of women, for women, by women”.

Cadolle: An Extraordinary Family Saga as featured on Lingerie Briefs

There are some names that are legendary in the Intimates industry, and Poupie Cadolle is one of them. Joining Cadolle in the 1970’s after earning a law degree (She had no intent in following in her mother’s footsteps) Poupie rose to the top of the Cadolle estate after training in all departments of this iconic company. I met Poupie (5th generation) in Paris some years ago at the Salon International de la Lingerie. We always touch base and that is how I learned, in 2018, of the publication of her book: Cadolle: An Extraordinary Family Saga. The book is a not only an inside look at the family journey, but also an exceptional insight into the history of lingerie recounted first hand by a remarkable woman. So when she told me she was coming to speak at Curve NY (Tuesday, 2/26 at 1PM), I was delighted to let my readers know. She will sign books on sight, but they are available anytime from the Cadolle websiteAnd if you visit Curve, stop by the Cadolle Creation booth and meet Patricia, Poupie’s daughter, now carrying on the name with her thoroughly modern collections.


By ELLEN LEWIS

Salon International de la Lingerie 2019 featured on Lingerie Briefs

Today’s exposé is a testimony to the Fall 2019 style direction that was on display at the recent Salon International de la Lingerie, Eurovet’s premiere European Intimate Apparel show.  This exposition was all about the brands, their products and the vision seeded at Interfilère last year. In 2018 we spoke of the emerging focus on the body “more as a subject and less as an object”. I remind you of this message because one year later this statement has been embraced more emphatically as cultural shifts have placed the importance of female empowerment on center stage. Two opposing codes of pleasure have emerged (thank you Jos Berry for this concise explanation.) The first is a need for decency, authenticity and preservation of heritage. The second is all about breaking the rules. In the process the dichotomy of this message has enabled multiple design themes to percolate.  In last week’s editorial I pinpointed some of the movements that are shaping creative decisions throughout the lingerie industry. But here, it’s the design element on which I want to focus.

Undress Code Fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsUndress Code

Bralettes and Bodywear were dominant shapes. As a result, wirefree bras have surged. This classification of intimates was front and center on every line I reviewed. Add to this the plunge neckline in many underwire styles and the lack of “push” in bra construction, and it is clear that the natural body and comfort are paramount.  One critical point is the continued growth of larger cups and the increase of plus sizes in many foundation lines.  Curvy has entered the mainstream.

Just a Corpse fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsJust a Corpse

I was also, acutely aware of the influence of dancewear. I am certain it is inspired by the increase of intimates in street apparel. One example is the innovative brand, Just a Corpse. Coupled with that is the impact of sport on intimate shapes.

Chantal Thomas fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsChantel Thomas

Garments are engineered with linear elements that contribute to an architectural and graphic visual statement. But lightness prevails as designers juxtapose laces, nets, power mesh, and sheer fabrics into their designs. Large abstract florals  prints, particularly roses and of course,embroidery. Embroidery and Guipure  are integrated into construction as well as applied as a detail. Leather, latex, velvet, metallic surfaces, and lurex were an interesting counterpoint to lightness. It’s all about mixing it all up.

Chantelle fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsChantelle

There was also interesting shaping elements, loungewear and a major statement about natural comfort and design simplicity, expressed best by Chantelle’s Soft Stretch collection. But most of these categories are better expressed in North America. So I will save them for my New York Curve recap. As for color, every shade of pink and red, the usual precancel of blue, watery pastels and most exciting; earthen shades including yellow and greens. After editing several hundred photos, there are still over 70 shown here.

Lejaby fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsMaison Lejaby

Understatement fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsUnderstatement

Aubade fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsAubade

Flash You And Me fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsFlash You And Me

Paloma Casile fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsPaloma Casile

Chantal Thomas fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsChantal Thomas

Lonely fall 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLonely

Underprotection 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsUnderprotection

Undress Code 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsUndress Code

LUV lingerie 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLUV Lingerie

LOU lingerie 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLOU Lingerie

Just a Corpse 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsJust A Corpse

Maison Lejaby 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsMaison Lejaby

Paloma Casile 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsPaloma Casile

Jolidon 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsJolidon

Taryn Winters 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsTaryn Winters

Valery 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsValery

Jolidon 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsJolidon

Valege 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsValege

Chantal Thomas 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsChantal Thomas

Lascana & Milakrasna 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLascana &Milakrasna

Nassi Collant 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsNassi Collant

Undress Code 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsUndress Code

Silent Arrow 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsSilent Arrow

Opaak 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsOpaak

Elomi 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsElomi

Louise Feuilliere 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLouise Feuilliere

Bordelle 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsBordelle

Corsetorium 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsCorsetorium

Elisa Poppy 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsElisa Poppy

E.L.F. Zhou 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsE.L.F. Zhou

Impudique by Charlotte Cantazaro 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsImpudique

Elisa Poppy 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsElisa Poppy

Elisa Poppy 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsSuperbe

Room 24 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsRoom 24

Maison Lejaby 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsMaison Lejaby

Passionata 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsPassionata

Aubade 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsAubade

Simone Perele 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsSimone Perele

Cadolle 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsCadolle

Prelude 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsPrelude

Taryn Winters 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsTaryn Winters

E.L.F. Zhou 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsE.L.F. Zhou

Flash You and Me 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsFlash You And Me

Aubade 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsAubade

Simone Perele 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsSimone Perele

Hämmerle Spitzen as feature d on Lingerie BriefsHämmerle Spitzen

Empreinte 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsEmpreinte

Louisa Bracq 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLouisa Bracq

Louisa Bracq 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLouisa Bracq

Louisa Bracq 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLise Charmel

Impudique by Charlotte Cantazaro 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsImpudique

Forster Rohner 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsForster Rohner

Simone Perele 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsLOU

Valege 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsValege

Empreinte 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsEmpreinte

Samantha Chang 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsSamantha Chang

Valery 2019 as featured on Lingerie BriefsValery

Patricia Garde as featured on Lingerie BriefsPatricia Garde

Cadolle as featured on Lingerie BriefsCadolle

Chantal Thomas as featured on Lingerie BriefsChantal Thomas

elomi as featured on Lingerie BriefsElomi

Freya as featured on Lingerie BriefsFreya

Lonely as featured on Lingerie BriefsLonely

Valery as featured on Lingerie BriefsValery

LOU as featured on Lingerie BriefsLOU Lingerie

Studio Pia as featured on Lingerie BriefsStudio Pia

Empreinte as featured on Lingerie BriefsEmpreinte

Maison Lejaby as featured on Lingerie BriefsMaison Lejaby

Nubian Skin as featured on Lingerie BriefsNubian Skin

In the end, the major message is the invincible woman, every facet of her, feminine and fierce, finally finding her voice. Precious, powerful, persistent and positive, she is rock and ballet and a pantheon of energy. She is indomitable.

 


By ELLEN LEWIS

Gallerie Hugo in Paris France as featured on Lingerie Briefs

Prior to the show in Paris, I was wandering around the Marais on my way to a meeting when I happened upon the Gallerie Hugo (pictured here with a bit of glare).  This explosion of color was a welcome respite on a grey and rainy day. I actually stopped to take a look. I never know how I might use imagery I come across on the blog. But, I figured that this scene might serve a purpose as I begin my market marathon with the fall 2019 expositions.

I found a perfect metaphor when I returned to New York.  One  of my first stops was Hanky Panky, ostensibly to get a fall preview.  Again it was a cold and misty afternoon. However, the burst of color on display in the NY showroom, though not unexpected from this playful brand, instantly reminded me of that moment in France when the atmosphere shifted outside that cheerful gallery. Hanky Panky’s acumen with print and color is part of their enduring signature, and certainly I have called it out before.  But every season it continues to excite me. Maybe I am a color junkie, but this year, with the growing importance of feel good apparel and innerwear accessorizing an outerwear statement, Hanky Panky is right on the money.

Signature lace from Hanky Panky on Lingerie Briefs

Prints from Hanky Panky on Lingerie Briefs

“I Prefer Living in Color” ~David Hockney

 


By ELLEN LEWIS

Luxury Legwear by Nicholas Messina featured on Lingerie Briefs

It’s no secret that I love socks. My tenure as a hosiery buyer at Macy’s (before it was a national behemoth) was one of the most creative jobs of my career. I am always perusing sock departments just to see what’s out there. I also believe that socks, like any other accessory, can be a great statement maker, even for us New Yorkers whose apparel tends to lean towards black and black.  Because of the stocking category, this whole classification has a natural affinity to lingerie. It’s just not easy to scope out the truly innovative. So imagine my thrill discovering Nicholas Messina  luxury legwear collection at Salon International de la Lingerie. The very first thing I said to Nicholas is these styles are sock jewelry. He even asked me if he could use the term!

Luxury Legwear by Nicholas Messina featured on Lingerie Briefs

Using pure silk, nylons knitted on ancient crafts, lycra and authentic thread 3 threads, each pair is unique, incorporating unexpected elements such as pearls, embroidered appliques and lace in interesting patterns. Made exclusively in France, it is a luxurious method for dressing the legs. Each pair is delivered perfumed an wrapped in tissue paper boxes.  The socks are amazing but more important this brand was a welcome lift to a 12 hour work day scoping the show for new ideas.

Luxury Legwear by Nicholas Messina featured on Lingerie Briefs

Luxury Legwear by Nicholas Messina featured on Lingerie Briefs

Luxury Legwear by Nicholas Messina featured on Lingerie Briefs

Creativity is Contagious. Pass it On! ~Albert Einstein

By ELLEN LEWIS

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Isn’t Paris amazing! Asked this question every year after I return from the Interfilière and Salon International de la Lingerie shows, I am hard pressed to respond. Paris, for me, is all about working the shows. I always find inspiration and this year, my market intelligence has been re-confirmed. Today’s review is focused on the fabrics, colors and consumer direction for the future of Intimate Apparel. And for this, we can thank the best source of this information available in Lingerie & Swim, Concept Paris and its leader, Jos Berry. I always cover this piece of the exposition first, because I learned years ago that the true foundation of Lingerie design resides in the materials and colors that create the final product. Concept Paris culls this information together from extensive research, not only from the textile industry, but also color and cultural forums.

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs : Sam Wetton designerSam Tretton: British designer and owner of Jam Boutique. Her credo is “Re-Imagined Vintage” 

There were some major messages, many previously established but whose momentum has only escalated with time. This has eliminated the seasonality aspect to fashion and blurred the lines globally between yesterday, today and tomorrow. In a nutshell, the most blatant are: Collaboration, Sustainability, Nature, Well-Being, Empowerment, Independence and Charity; and, of course, the power of color to define these movements. Lingerie Briefs will take a deeper look as the year evolves. Of critical importance was a special platform for 30 up and coming international indie designers whose passion for independence in order to express their ideas is a subject close to my heart. Today, I offer you a visual take away from Interfilère as well as a selection of Indie highlights (like the one above by Sam Tretton. And remember, many of these themes interact.

Evolving Pink and True Reds

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Evolving Classics: Blue Denim, Chambray, Small Florals, Dots, Toiles

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

DeTox: Yellow and Green. Fresh, Food, Nature

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Sport Chic: Deck Chairs, Stripes, Madras, Large Scales, 80’s Revival

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Earthy: Inspired by Earthenware, Glazed, Artisanal

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Watery Whitened Clean Colors

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Rustic Retro: Handmade, Crafted, Natural Materials

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Generous Blooms: Flowers Handpainted, Blurred, Wallpaper, Batik

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Global Rhythms: Street & Sports Blend. Nets, Meshes, Geometrics

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Save the Animals: Birds, Bees, Wing effects, Camouflage

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Taking Care of Nature:  Sustainability, Eco-Responsible Production, Recycling

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Shaping: Fading Lines Between Sport, Shape and Beach. New research in Compression

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Surface Effects: Technical surface treatment. Laminate, Bonding, Embossed, Textured Jacquards, Metallics, Foiled and Pearlized

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie Briefs

Indie Independent Designers: a Selection

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsUros Belantic: Slovenian-Inspired by Dance

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsAbbie Miranda: British- o-Founder of Beija Lingerie

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsAgnete Bjerre-Madsen: Danish,-Celebration of the Natural Shape

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsUrakova Kensia: Russian-Innovation in Plus Sizes & Non-Standard Figure Types

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsChelsea Yaley: American-3D & Innovation in Moulde Cups as well as Experimenting with Materials

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsTaryn Winters: American-Costume Inspire Couture

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsNikki Pettit: American- Ry-cycled & Natural Dyes

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsIsabella Storani: Italian- Founder of Sweet Sour Lingerie blending Romantic and Sporty Lingerie

Paris Interfiliere Show 2019 highlights on Lingerie BriefsAgathe Muffert: German- Creative Director & Designer of Opaak, a Revolutionary Brand Focused on Minimalism

 

 


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