I just returned from the Mode City Swimwear/Lingerie and Interfilière shows. If you have ever watched the movie Around The World In 80 Days, you might have some idea what my recent trip to Paris was like. A confluence of unexpected events; 100 degree temperatures sans air-conditioning, a wicked cold in full fever mode and a camera that would not cooperate, made this particular trip a challenge. Nonetheless, journey accomplished, despite some obstacles, I did cull some interesting trend information worthy of recapping here.
This show is heavily weighed to the swim and beach market, so much so that this is where the trend forums places attention. The lingerie vendors that do present are in pared down booths most focused on their swim collections for 2016. However, the swim market, a fashion driven body image venue , serves the intimates market well. It is a natural segue into lounge, body shaping, activewear and the sports category. And in fact, this was a major message at the Interfilière expo where the emphasis on technically astute fabrics was highlighted. The emergence of the empowered woman is clarified by materials worthy of intense workouts and all day wear.
On the flip side, uber sheer laces are counterpointed with dramatic embroideries and guipure motifs. The re-emergence of floral prints in RTW, large and small scale is a major direction in lace, embroidery and guipure patterns. They look very new. What’s more, new engineering techniques bring lace from a decorative to a functional level exemplified by Empreinte’s new “reserve” metallic weave lace and Lise Charmel’s beautiful guipure appliqued and embroidered Calais levers laces. Certainly the bridal market benefits.
Open bondage has evolved into a more layered look, higher necklines, meshes, fishnet decorated with exquisite levers laces softens the once in your face effect.
Optical blocking in bold combinations is a direct result of the increase of the athletic market impact on Intimates. “Sports bras are the stars”. Activewear is proclaimed the new frontier for Lingerie businesses
The infusion of metallic elements, shine prevailed. Animal Prints reinterpreted and new.
I mentioned the importance of blue multiple times in my daily updates. It is clearly the critical palette for both swim and lingerie. Blue is coupled with white, with coral, with yellow. But right behind this constant hue is the large sway of reds and pinks. Clearly these colors will increase in importance as we go forward towards fall. Black and white hold court, as always. I suspect that white, a key lingerie color in Europe and heavy disdain in the USA will gain importance in America as we go forward.
Speaking of the USA and North America in general, I noticed strong emphasis from many key vendors on product categories that are unique to our continent. Mix and Match swimwear, unheard of in Europe is a major focus for savvy makers. Sports Bras hold court in many lines. And the ubiquitous t-shirt bra, the American hero, is the fulcrum of many assortments. How to maintain the purity of cause and still add character and femininity to these bras is seen in every astute foundation collection.
And the amount of bohemian throwback to the 60’s and the 70’s prevailed in the coverup market and heralded obvious direction for spring loungewear.
Truth be told, this particular voyage was a bit demanding. But when I was walking around the 16th arrondissement with my sister (who lives there) after the show and I saw this balloon rise up above the rooftops, I knew that no matter what trials or tribulation one confronts, Paris always delivers.
“My Goal Is To Spread Ideas. Trends Always Start At The Top” ~Homaro Cantu
