By ELLEN LEWIS
I have just spent the past week de-briefing from my 3 day marathon at Curve NY. Siphoning through 500 photographs now culled down for this article I have come to some conclusions on what is happening as we head into the fall 18/spring 19 lingerie season. I have heard much about the multi-billion dollar Lingerie industry in the past few years: the shrinking vendor structure, which is true, as well as the lack of innovation, which is false. After 35 years in this business, I have seen much growth; the coming of age of plus sizes in bras, the technological innovation in every element that bra construction requires, the growth of European brands into the USA retail arena, and an increase on the importance of sustainability. The biggest juggernaut, the internet and social media, has/ is transforming the Intimate Apparel business irrevocably and informing the rise of Indie brands, a much needed infusion into the creative landscape. For me, this translates to evolution and, I saw a lot of it at the Curve New York show: seminars focused on body positivity, charity, social media and the critical importance of the press. Integration of lifestyle elements including skin care, jewelry, fragrance and science piqued interest. From my perspective, trends, captured in the Concepts lounge, a Fine Arts Gallery, a Panty display, are affecting a new show infrastructure. Some new merchandising seeds were rooting, mother/daughter collections from Saint Haven and Fillandise. And I am a merchant at heart so product still matters, touching it, feeling it, experiencing it. Here’s my take on what I saw:
- Bodysuits dominated showcases
- Minimalism in collections: focus on basics, lightness, a touch of femininity, lines.
- Comfort Crosses Over: sleep, lounge and BRAS
- Curvy dominance (thank God)
- Color: YELLOW & WHITE become fashion colors. GREY as a basic. Always blues, pinks, red, black. Skin tones that are not nude. Palest of pastels
- Prints: I never promised you a ROSE garden: flowers: abstract, tropical, blurred, scattered
- Details: front closure bras emerge as a trend, the unexpected pleasure effect, color contrast
- Shapes follow the lightness path: bralets, triangles, wirefree expand
- Bridal: Always important
- Lingerie is graphic, architectural & linear, touches of gold
- Embroidery prevails
- Swimwear emerges at multiple Lingerie sites as crossover wear expands
- Sports: bras & leggings hold court
- Panty Power: These are not your grandma’s briefs. Plus, invisibility rules.
Please Note: The brands represented here are not exclusive to the trends I am showcasing. They are the lines I saw at Curve and the images that my amateur camera skills captured. Sometimes.
