By KIMBERLY BERGER
I was 26 years old when I began working in the swimwear industry. Back then the largest size in a bikini was an XL, mix and match separates were unheard of, tankinis didn’t exist and one piece suits only came two flavors: old lady florals with full coverage or a no support tank style, usually in a color block. Twenty years later, and the swimwear market caters to all body types with every level of modesty and support available. It was at this year’s show that I noticed even the brands traditionally geared towards the more mature customer, have a younger feel and are getting creative with their tried and true styles. Is this because in today’s body conscious society, grandmas are becoming hip? Yes, there’s that, but its more likely that I have reached ‘grandma’ age and these manufacturers are turning their focus to include my generation. Ouch. Nothing brings on a midlife crisis quite like the Miami Swim Show!
Last year’s introduction of high necklines and cap sleeves to the catwalk was greeted with such success that there wasn’t a brand out there that didn’t have a variation of these styles to offer. Crochet bibs are everywhere and it is rare to see solid colors with out the added spice of crochet, mesh and lace overlays, ruching, cutouts and/or ruffles. Coral, teal, aqua, royal blue, and shades of orange, pink and green dominate the color palette. Metallic foils and hardware are most often gold or rose gold. Floral prints featuring roses, daisies and poppies are ubiquitous, however fruits and even vegetables join the mix this year. The animal trends of last year have mostly faded away, but leopard and zebra prints remain strong. Stripes are a common contrast trim and many suits offer versatility with removable yet water-friendly cover-up options.
“Fashion reflects the temper of the times” and is a direct response to the current social, economic and political atmospheres. In a climate of uncertainty and feelings of insecurity, this years trends fall into two distinctive categories. Both are nostalgic and pull from fashions of earlier and simpler times and mimic the current social “us and them” environment. The first travels way back to times of tradition, structure and opulence. Victorian undertones and classical elegance have emerged reflecting a longing for stability and economic prosperity. The second derives its influence from the anti-establishment cultures of the 60s, and 70s, the Hippie and Punk movements, and a desire to be carefree, self sufficient, independent and a tad rebellious.
In the first group, the Vintage trend dedicates itself to beauty, extravagance and high stature. Shades of pink, rose, merlot, pastel purple, steel blue and taupe lend themselves to a romantic story. Lavish trims and lace are abundant in this ultra-feminine inclination. Styling includes corset tops, longline bras and boning to keep lacings in place. Floral prints feel as though they have been pulled out of a watercolor or off of an old master’s oil painting. In addition to this opulent fashion trend a subcategory leans more towards the classical. Crisp white and ivory in luxurious fabrics lend themselves to stately and tailored looks. Pleating and ruching add interest and flatter curves while maintaining an elegant and affluent appearance.
In the latter trend, as would be expected from a Hippie influence, tie dyes, particularly in blue and white abound. Crochets and overlays, tassels, pom-poms and fringes, are prominent in both swimwear and cover-up pieces. Florals are bright, and whimsical. Feathers and butterfly wings continue to make a prominent appearance often as a border to vivid ikat prints of kelly green, royal blue, turquoise, purple and pink. Accents of lime green, yellow and bright orange are common. This trend pursues the comfort and warmth provided by the Hippie ideals of love and peace and the exhilaration of living life without imposed limitations. On the flip side of the anti-establishment trend, a Punk influence reveals itself with nail head, zipper and chain accents on black on black or neutral colorblocks. Multiple straps and cutouts of bondage inspiration are prevalent. Overflowing with a feel of strength and independence, the collections exude classy confidence. This customer knows who she is and is not afraid to stand out from the crowd.
If you work in this industry long enough, everything eventually seems to come full circle. Despite many instances of ‘deja vous’, designers really have managed to put a modern spin on the re-emerging fashions of yesteryear. I’m not quite ready to embrace the return of some styles with the same enthusiasm that one 20 year old model displayed for a high leg, no support, Miami Vice one piece suit complete with, in her words, “side boob”. But perhaps if I were 20 years younger I would. So for now, I will be content in the knowledge that the manufacturers that have the technology to design swimwear that enables my curves to defy gravity and the laws of aging have added me to their target audience and, thankfully, they understand that I am not ready to become a grandmother just yet.
