By ASI EFROS
For every creative human, the spark of imagination is as precious as a breath of air or a gulp of water. We are inspired by many aspects of our being via all our senses. Some of the strongest sources of inspiration for me have always been people, their creativity, and their uniqueness. Looking back at the passing year and remembering its brightest highlights, I extend my gratitude to the brilliant designers who began the process of imaginative transformation, who inspired and motivated millions of creators all over the world.
Serbian-British designer Roksanda Ilinčić is easily recognizable for her unmistakably explicit color palette. In her latest collection, the brilliant hues—as named by the designer—are elderflower, acid pink merlot, iris, vermillion, coral, oatmeal, and marigold.
Roksanda’s SS22 collection Women in Motion is an ode to the dynamic female nature and fluidity. Sixteen garments were chosen by the designer to be shown through dance in the piece choreographed by her friend Holly Blakey. This is where flowy silk evening gowns, long-over-long layered ensembles, voluminous trench coats, and goddess-like coverings reveal their dynamic nature and come alive through movement.
Marco Rambaldi creates as if there are no borders, genders, or time. His SS22 collection is the space where uniqueness is treated as the biggest asset and where our differences are traits of unity as opposed to division. The young brand, born in 2017, soaked up the ages of the extraordinary Italian craftsmanship into a thirst-quenching gulp of fashion optimism. The brand’s mission is to pay homage to the treasures created by the skilled hands of Italian artisans and to share them with the world. Rambaldi’s chunky heart-warming sweaters, charming knitted bralettes, ribbed wide-bottom leggings, and brilliantly placed artful screens are all evidence of his passionate pursuit.
The Spring/Summer RTW collection of Antonio Marras signifies revival and vitality. It was conceived and then filmed on his home island of Sardinia, in the area where a fire had ravaged hectares of the pristine forest the summer before.
“It was like walking on the moon, on a desolate land, among incredible colors. You could really feel the pain, but at the same time the strength of nature, a desire of rebirth,” said Antonio Marras in his interview for WWD.
The darkness of the burned forest, paired with the beauty of the rose floral motifs and purity of the white canvas and tulle, convey the continuity of life through the artistry of the artisanal craft. Strong lingerie references like the vintage brassiere and embroidered slip add an element of intimacy and nativity. The designer even used the white fabric that seamstresses put on their ironing boards when they worked on the samples, which he then painted, embroidered, and used in many patchwork styles.
One of the most memorable was the SS22 collection by Tom Ford. The runway gleamed with sequins and gold lamé and revived the atmosphere of New York City Studio 54. The procession of chic ensembles, combining a fresh take on lingerie and sportswear, crowned the catwalk to reveal the most demanded item of the next season. Among them was a hipster jogger pant in shiny satin with a tapered or cinched hem. In neon and gem hues, it’s an all-time party favorite but with a utility flair. Noteworthy is a variety of bra styles ranging from the tiny triangle in silver lamé to a sexy longline sports bra in tech textile, which demand to be seen.
Femininity with an edge was the theme of the SS22 collection by Acne Studios, focusing on the corset. Yes, the metamorphosis of the corset continues with many versions of it being seen on the Acne Studios’ curvaceous catwalk covered with folded velvet. Corsets with sleeves and their upside-down renditions, their play on garter belts, and vintage lace-up all celebrate the culture of undressing, which reveals the precious underpinnings. This collection is an ode to the lingerie craft and a reminder that what was once hidden, is now being seen.
Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault have outdone themselves once again. Their range for SS22, under the name KNWLS, expands their stylistic vocabulary into the new generation of second-skin curve-conscious layered essentials. In the earthy palette of the Wild West, the collection circles around the racer-front bras and bodies in printed mesh paired with the dramatically distressed leather staples. Delicate off-shoulder tops, flowy bias-cut slips and camisoles, flared hems, gathers, lace-ups, and crafty cutouts are all part of the designers’ ever-evolving artistic language.
Albanian designer, Nensi Dojaka, launched her brand in 2017 while completing her BA at the London College of Fashion. Since then, she’s been on a quest to find new pathways into the world of wearable surrealistic art. She plays with the juxtaposition of light and dark, delicate and rough, vulnerable and strong. Noteworthy are her experimentations in the realm of legwear and bodywear, where she explores the durability of something as fragile as mesh. Even though the collection belongs to the category of RTW, it is deeply intimate in its nature and provides a glimpse of the designer’s empowering sensuality.
Elena Velez was raised in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, by her mom—a ship’s captain on the Great Lakes. Elena spent most of her childhood among the shipyards, docks, and engine rooms. Later, it became her distinct design vocabulary when she was welcomed to the Parsons School of Design in NYC. Materials like boat covers, sails, scrap metal, parachute, ship line, and salvaged steel are intricate parts of her arsenal.
“I love working with scrapped, salvaged, and repurposed textiles because they come charged with the energy of the life they lived before—they really lend an artifact-like quality to the work in a way that can’t be bought or recreated,” said Elena in her interview for Forbes magazine.
As we conclude one of the most challenging years in global history, we are energized. The future looks bright, encouraging, and full of wonders and creativity.
For the world of inspiration and to learn more about global trends, visit www.MintModa.com.
Contact:
Maria Valentino,:Co-Founder/COO, MintModa Trend Forecasting
Email: mvalentino@mintmoda.com
Instagram: @mintmodanyc
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