Optimism in Paris ~ Interfiliere Highlights
By ELLEN LEWIS
I just returned from the Paris shows, Interfiliere and Salon International de la Lingerie. This years’ experience was definitely new for us at Lingerie Briefs as we traveled more as a team with a divide and conquer attitude. Alison Connolly, our social media guru and Tina Wilson, our very talented contributing editor for design and illustration used their unique perspectives to cover the show. (Check our Instagram highlights as well as all of our future stories to come.) Their support gave me more time to dive deeper into the stories behind the hub bub. I sensed a shift in mood, a kind of Optimism, an energy signaling change. Perhaps it’s a motivation to reach for the sky and “fix” our future
Leandro Erlich’s installation at Le Bon Marché. Courtesy/Gabriel de La Chapelle
Today’s post tackles Interfiliere at which fabrics and colors that will influence Lingerie design in 2019/2020 are presented. It is in these forums that designers seed their ideas. It is a creative endeavor, perhaps esoteric for some, but it is also a wealth of original thought that inspires the teams that actually develop worthy product. One section, The Exception #6 yielded “The Surface Exhibition”, a gallery of Sensations formed by multiple artists and directed by Sylvie Maysonnave. The display was built around this sculpture of recycled textiles. For me, the main message was the journey of touch, an ode to craft, natural elements inviting interaction. This installation illuminates the major directive of this year’s Interfiliere “Nature Moves Us”. Deep in these artisanal ideas are trends that will emerge in the future as textile manufacturers push the envelop in fabric innovation.
Caroline Courtois
Daniel Henry & Quoi Alexander
Daniel Henry & Savoar Fer
Quoi Alexander & Noemie Devime
Savoar Fer
Related to this text is the importance of sustainability, not a new story, but growing in relevance. Finding remedies for mindless consumption and building a sustainable future can be seen from major fiber companies like Eastman with Naia™ and Tencel™ Luxe by Lenzing. Along with many other brands, they are rising to the challenge of green production. How do we overcome the immense amount of waste generated by the many types of components required to produce lingerie? Consumers will move to quality over quantity.
Complementing this environmental theme is the non-profit social cooperative founded in 2007 by Luciana Delle Donne to support women on the edges of society. 20 prisoners are trained to create product with recycled fabrics. The aim is reintegration. Made in Carcere is a an example of social entrepreneurship with a message of hope.
Lluna Laces
Codental Laces
A. Zibetti Embroidery
Forster Rohner Embroidery
Penn TS & New Bodyline Sourcing
In the Forums created by Jos Berry and Concepts Paris, major fabric and color themes are always showcased. Many will be reinforced in our second post later this week covering the Salon. Evident here are the impact of the natural effects, the lightness of laces, graphic influences, linear patterns and the lack of floral motifs. particularly in laces. Delicate touches, folds, tulle edges. Pinks, purple, violets, blues dominate as well as khaki greens, burnt reds and ranges of beige. There is a lot of yellow and gold. Metallic touches filter through fabrics. Shapewear fabrics are light, elegant and will change the face of the category. (More about that in a later post). Surfaces are textured either, subtly or in 3D. Stripes, as always, work. There is also a nod to the eclectic. But first and foremost, embroidery and guipures are applied, shaped, and layered continuously. Embroidery rules.
