1920’s Effortless Elegance Returns
by Nivara Xaykao
After finally catching a few episodes of Boardwalk Empire at a friend’s house not too long ago, I immediately became hooked and marathon-watched the entire series over the holidays. Aside from its fascinating look into the dark underbelly of 1920s Atlantic City, the extravagant, meticulously detailed costumes provide more than enough reason to tune in.
Although women are meant to be seen and not heard in Boardwalk Empire’s criminal underworld, their wardrobes – from the inside to the outside – do plenty of the talking. In addition to the popular HBO show, Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris set off a fury of Zelda Fitzgerald bobs and Gertrude Stein-centric art exhibits around the world last year; and early images from Baz Luhrmann’s take on The Great Gatsby have sent fashionistas flocking to vintage outlets for flashy headdresses and beautiful shirts. Even the stuffy English aristocrats at Downton Abbey finally reached the year 1920 at season’s end. No matter where you look, all signs seem to be pointing to The Dollar Decade.
In fashion, Jazz Age looks ran rampant on the S/S 2012 runway, from Marc Jacob’s up-all-night-dancing working class flappers to Etro’s artsy Sonia Delaunay-inspired Bohemians. Over the holidays, retailers from La Perla to Topshop were ringing in the 20s with fringe, fur, sequins and festive in-store displays. Brands like Only Hearts and Anthropologie have built their entire reputation on early 20th century influences, and their vintage-inspired ethos taps right into the 20s zeitgeist. What is it about this era that women find so appealing? And why now?
The end of WWI ushered in a decade of relative prosperity, a time when people had a little extra cash to luxuriate and extra time to leisure. In America, 1920 marked the passage of the Nineteenth Amendment, which granted women the right to vote. Reciprocally, women began to shed their corsets for soft, unstructured bralettes and frilly Victorian camisoles for straight, boyish chemises. Tap pants were fluid and roomy, perfect for wearing under your favorite dancing dress or just around the home. Robes ranged from fur-trimmed cocoons to languid kimonos. Colors were soft and sweet, uncomplicated laces adorned hems and delicate bows dotted the décolletage. It was feminine but far from fussy, a period of unparalleled glamour yet newfound ease for women.
More than showy ruffles and binding shapewear, the modern woman can appreciate the relaxed sensibility of the 1920s. But she can also indulge in its sumptuous silks, fluid silhouettes that accentuate natural curves and understated touches of opulence. Most of all, the 1920s promoted an ideal of effortless elegance that every woman still aspires to achieve, whether she’s wearing her finest fur coat or shabbiest sweats.
love the images and the story. intimates seem like the perfect place to express all the 20s influences of the season. Great post!