Resplendence and Restraint
by Nivara Xaykao
As the dust settles on the Fall/Winter 2012 season, my colleagues and I at Stylesight are beginning to decipher the footpath of trends along the runway. In the area of intimates, inspiration materialized in subtle ways, from an intricate body map of seams to a plunging square neckline. Overall, collections were governed by dueling ideas of resplendence and restraint; and perhaps no two labels illustrated these incongruous approaches more than Milan-based Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana.
Dolce & Gabbana are the traditionalists, epitomizing much of what has come to define ”Made in Italy”: opulence, sophisticated sensuality, Old-World craftsmanship and a design brashness that often runs in one direction and on one speed (fast). This season, they revved up the luxury, decorating their signature bodysuits, sinuous sheaths and even socks with elaborate needlework and gilded appliqués. The Baroque interiors-inspired pieces made an uncompromising statement for decadence in light of the past few seasons of minimalism. The clothes were undeniably beautiful, their lacy, florid extravagance tapping into a woman’s most fantastical inner desires. However, underneath the ornate displays were highly supportive, flattering garments that elegantly cling to and accentuate a woman’s every curve.
While Dolce & Gabbana may be the sartorial equivalent to Luchino Visconti’s lush costume epic The Leopard, Raf Simons’ final collection for Jil Sander was more Alain Resnais’ surreal study Last Year in Marienbad, from its mid-century-inspired frocks to the somber, hypnotic runway procession. While his last few seasons were influenced by mannish proportions and sportif graphics, Simons took an understated, unabashedly feminine turn for Fall. A poetic vision of sweet pastels, engineered body-hugging panels and buoyant fabrics, the designer’s swan song was unlike any other collection this season, reportedly moving many in the audience to tears. While its exterior of couture polish made for a pretty picture, a closer examination of the collection revealed intentional cracks in the surface – a PVC-lined rip in a dress here, an extra mass of fabric there. For Simons, it was about a day in the life of a relationship in all its joyous, depressing and unexpected turns. It was also a sublime expression of womanhood, the tender moments and imperfections making the clothes all the more beautiful and special.
So in the battle between resplendence and restraint, perfection and fragility, who wins? While I think the Jil Sander collection is one of the most exquisite in recent memory, I don’t believe either is more or less effective in exploring and capturing the feminine spirit. The popular belief is that lingerie falls into one of two categories: what you would wear for yourself on an everyday basis and what you would wear for your boyfriend/romantic partner. In the case of both collections, they managed to strike just that right balance of aesthetic forwardness, function and fancy while retaining a modicum of modesty (and mystery) that is surprisingly sexy in its sincerity. They lovingly and reverently display the female form, celebrating the strengths and vulnerabilities that make us who we are. And as disparate as their approaches are, both labels exhibit a creative boldness that should set the stage for an interesting and unique design season.
