Cool Tracings from Curve NY 2017
By TINA WILSON
A trio of floating butterflies on each strap…
A statement of profanity worn with pride…
Bits of tulle and lace, raw and exposed and dripping from the frame of the bras…
Multicolored paillettes dangling from a bomber jacket…
Long mesh skirts with laser cut applique flowers….
The details were many, as were the number of vendors vying for attention.
I mean this in the most complementary way; being a designer I have the utmost admiration for the talent and artistry that was on display at Curve recently during a few warm muggy weeks in NYC.
There were quite a few notable new brands. Some were eclectic with combinations of lace, guipure, mesh, and prints like Ellipse, a brand out of South America that had everything from bras to kimonos. They had no defining brand identity but they did not need one, everything that hung from their racks had a singular beauty and detail of its own.
On the opposite spectrum, was Salua. They took the current retail mantra of “soft, soft, soft” to new heights with their minimal Pima knits and wovens from Peru. I stood there caressing each garment as the woman minding the booth watched patiently waiting for me to speak. Their colors were traditionally pinks and blues but they were fresh and pretty with pops of bright color elastic and piping. They are new a fave. This is how I like to sleep.
A brand you will definitely be hearing more about is Silent Arrow, out of Australia. Love the name, love the product. They were a bit all over the place but we all were happy they were; people were crowded around the booth clamoring to take a look. Silent Arrow gets the Curve award for “Best Statement” print (flocked velvet mesh). In a glaring sign of our times their “F#!k You” briefs and bra let us know how they really feel!
Tutu is another brand new to me and I was in love with their colors. It’s hard to show the complexity of the colors they chose; so unlike most swimwear colors. Try to see them in person. The combination of the matte almost suede-like fabric, the uncomplicated mix n’ match silhouettes and the colors really worked. Another swim standout was Marlies Dekkers stripes, so fresh and so clean.
There were the brands that never disappoint, Simone Perele, Lou, LeMystere and Maison Close who showed off some real beauties in innovation and detail! The bra color of the season appears to be variant shades of peach, blush and coral and they were beautiful. Cosabella had some striking chemises and a gorgeous group of bridal pieces composed of white embroidery on an invisible nude shade of tulle.
No reporting is complete without mentioning some of the classic luxe brands like Christine and Affinia, both had extraordinary prints and color combinations in silk sleep and lounge that were rich and inviting. I especially love the silk chemises with a summer red shade of lace appliqued on them from Affinia.
It was a stimulating feast for the eyes, new brands making old statements, old brands making new statements, and traditional brands making updated statements. Many were works of art; I hope my illustrations do them justice! There are still signs of life in these tumultuous retail moments…thank you Curvexpo!