Paris Recap ~ Salon International de la Lingerie What I Saw & What I Learned
By ELLEN LEWIS
If you’ve been reading this column for the past few weeks, you know that I have been focused on the Interfilière and Salon International de la Lingerie shows, which have just wrapped up in Paris. We’ve zeroed in on textiles, interesting brands to watch, and my own particular musings on the critical influence of French Lingerie on the Intimates world. But today, it’s all about brands who find this exposition an important venue to bring their message to a global audience. For my part, the stories told at Salon this season go beyond the usual color, shape, and style trends. It is about the body seen “more as a subject and less as an object.”
Established brands are “re-branding”. Fall 2018 marketing campaigns are focused on strong, independent women. Seduction is about intelligence, not the fantasies of men. Lingerie is a product of personal empowerment, not a point of erotica. This was clear at both the Simone Pérèle and Chantelle stands as well as on the runway. Lise Charmel staged an exquisite fashion show celebrating intimates as feminine art. Stereotypes need not apply.
The most important message was the dichotomy of the message: exquisitely detailed underpinnings shown in tandem with clean, unadorned intimates. The blurring of purpose: garments designed to wear alone to layer into wardrobes in order to dress up or dress down an outfit.
Chantel Thomass & Passionata
Critical to the show was the clear evidence that the future of retail remains in the hands of the socially active, unique thinker, and a savvy shopper whose access to everything has taught her how to invest economically and ethically in quality. The customer is diverse, international, a consumer without borders.
The impact of social media was another critical statement at Salon. I, for one, was amazed at the level of recognition Lingerie Briefs, a blog-site, had from this international audience. Every single stand of substance is clearly engaged in a media platform, recognizing the power of a website to influence, draw consumers and allow a brand to “do its own thing” organically. This is why I am so impressed with the launch of Eurovet’s new platform The Lingerie Place. Already listing 1500 brands & 1200 suppliers from 45 countries, The-Lingerie-Place.com has been cited as “the Google of lingerie”. It will have the capacity to provide endless intelligence to the Intimate Apparel Industry. The definition of marketing and merchandising has changed as digital reach grows.
Gorgeous luxury lingerie brands like Gilda & Pearl and Cadolle have launched diffusion lines. Watch for Cadolle’s venture into the mainstream at CurveNY. Plus sizes continue their rocket like growth. Check out Paloma Casile’s capsule plus collection at CurveNY. Note: Wacoal Europe (Eveden lives here) was awarded brand of the year. I have no doubt that the explosive Elomi brand anchored that decision
The trends reflected at the booths were clear extensions of the direction started several seasons ago: Deconstruction of established codes, graphical, architectural and organic lace patterns (nary a flower to be seen). Light, transparent fabrics combined with hi tech fabrics and layers of lace prevailed. 3D effects enable the influences of handcraft. Embroidery is layered, colored, and still, in my opinion, the most pervasive lingerie component. Nature dominates color , print and motif. Flowers, when seen are large and loose. Color is cosmetic; powdery to smokey, muted, and grayed. The prevalence of deep purples, dark greens, khakis and gold shades speak to the earth. Blue remains everywhere. Two obvious elements: metallic (mainly gold) and unexpected color and print combinations. Bodysuits, hi-briefs and straps endure.
LYN & The Kent Woman
Le Petit Trou & Chantal Thomass
Elise Anderegg & Madame Pierre
Prelude by Jolidon
Ritratti & Madame Pierre
Aubade & Maison Lejaby
Keep It Silky & Patrricia A. Garde on Lingerie Briefs
Edge of Beyond & Studio Pia
Gilda & Pearl
La Costa del Aragon
Emannuelle Poignan & Lascana
Andres Sarda & Doris Larson
Murmur & Flash You and Me
Morpho and Luna & La Costa del Algodon
Underprotection & Ciso