Curve NY ~ What I Saw and What I Think
By ELLEN LEWIS
Nothing has changed and everything is changing. The NY Curve Intimate Apparel show was, from what I understand from many of the brands to whom I spoke, with a few exceptions, a success. Of note, from the buyers, the entire vibe was much better, with meaningful seminars, a brand speed dating event that allowed merchants 5 minute intervals with new vendors, and a Concepts lounge that not only gave some smaller brands an opportunity for exposure, but also integrated, jewelry, and fragrances into the landscape. The efforts of the Curve group to generate dialog on social media, emerging trends and market evolution was a big plus. In a world where instant gratification rules and speed to consumer is the key, it will still always be important to experience the product first hand. How trade shows decide to accomplish this will position them for the future.
For me, comparing the Curve show to the Paris show cannot be helped and in this thought process lay the vision that I have of this season’s market. It always fascinates me that the Europeans seem so far ahead of the USA when it comes to lingerie design, specifically intimates; bras, panties, bodysuits etc. They develop this merchandise as if it was fine jewelry and the results bear this out. European women wear these underpinnings as a piece of empowerment; a statement. Here in America, although this is changing, lingerie is underwear; functional, comfortable and durable; thus the dominance of the t-shirt bra in this North American market segment. In fact, the European brands that figured this out are growing here. Brands to watch: Charnos
Charnos
Conversely, it always amazes me that when it comes to the “casual” side of the business- call it lounge, homewear, athleisure, whatever, the American Market is the trend leader. Shop for this category overseas and most of what you see is stayed, traditional, often elegant but not a lifestyle statement. Perhaps this is because America initiated the blue jean and sneaker revolution. Maybe it makes sense. After all, as I just said; casual comfort is in our DNA. Brands to watch: Splendid and Memoi.
Splendid
MeMoi
Couple this with the emerging social movements of this decade and it’s no wonder that the Curvy business is exploding on our shores. I dislike the moniker curvy and plus size. After all, these are just more regular sizes for another fit. But for lack of a better term these days, this larger cup and band category is critical, in my opinion, to the growth of a lingerie business. What makes the current expansion so positive is that many of the brands involved are ramping up the fashion offers up to an I cup. Brands to watch: Louisa Bracq and Adina Reay
Adina Reay & Louisa Bracq
Along with the curvy and lifestyle segments, I am most impressed by the continued growth of sustainable products in our marketplace. As this becomes more and more of a focus in our daily lives, brands that concentrate on green development will win. Brands to watch: Calida and Swedish Stockings
And last, for me, the artistry of Lingerie still rules the industry. Creativity, craftsmanship, construction, time honored details, sensuality and technology are why I believe intimate apparel is an expression of the female spirit. Sometimes the investment is worth it: Watch Coco de Mer, Keep It Silky and Cadolle Intimates
Coco de Mer
Keep It Silky
Cadolle Creations
Besides these movements, several trends continued: the influence of nature, lightness, graphic laces and embroideries, velvet crushed and smooth, new skin neutrals: taupe, café, caramels, birds, blue-blue-blue as usual, into purples. Red becomes basic, Touches of green and yellow.
Lifestyle
P.J. Salvage
Pluto on The Moon & Calida
Skin
UGG
BUP & Splendid
Arlotta
Laurence Tavernier
BUP
Fleur’t & Skarlett Blue
Josie & Splendid
Splendid
Only Hearts
Oscalito
Euroskin
Cadolle Creation
Undress Code & Simone Perele
Only Hearts
Addiction & Marlies Dekkers
Christine Silk
Artistry: Laces and Embroideries
Jane Woolrich
Millesia
I.D. Sarrieri
Keep It Silky
Cadolle Creations
Millesia & Ritratti
Lise Charmel
Simone Perele
Coco de Mer
LOU
Adina Reay
Jane Woolrich
Curvy Fit
Fit Fully Yours
Curvy Couture
Elomi & Scantilly
Elila & Sculptress
Louisa Bracq
Freya
Panache
Color
Huit
Ellipse
Ritratti
Montelle Intimates
Blubella
Simone Perele
Cadolle Creations
Rya Collection
Ginia
Calida & Huit
Calida
Underprotection & Huit
Le Mystere
Le Mystere
b.tempt’d
Triumph
LOU
Louisa Bracq
Empreinte
Rago
Nubian Skin
Re: “Europeans seem so far ahead of the USA when it comes to lingerie design”
Absolute fact, lingerie started in UK & Europe long before USA was 50 states. UK & Euro market is lingerie… not the cheap comfort slop that is indeed the main “underwear” basis of USA.
A catch 22… very limited scale of lingerie stores in USA branch out into the full range of QUALITY lingerie without caving into to some selection of slop. When Buyers only buy beige/nude/peach/black/white/red for USA it drives lingerie lovers to buy direct from Europe (cheaper than imports when VAT is dropped out) and the lingerie inexperienced to not even know what they are missing out on. If all American women know of lingerie is the cheesy “Romance” shop on the bad part of town, of course they will continue to buy 3-pack underwear at Walmart.
USA is missing the middle ground of quality assortment… which used to be in the main street womens stores in the 1950’s which was killed off by the mall, and is now killed off by any main street stores existing at all. Not sure what the real USA answer is, but as a global lingerie shopper I internally scream when I see USA shops peddling the same 1950’s image of “bridal”… white blue pink. Zero relevance to the half USA population that is not married, but could be on the road to the alter.
NOT at all addressing the reality that the finance-to-be-husband has already seen his lady in black, red, blues, greens, prints, hold ups, garters and all the trimmings BEFORE the honeymoon… so WHY would he be possibly interested in baby blue + baby pink + lace+ frills, when he has already seen better.
The store selling only 1 image of “wedding” has nothing to offer- in product or shopping experience- to the women of today (all ages).
Appalling the # of USA lingerie stores who cannot find a way to draw in customers monthly. All they tout is bra fittings… the same thing touted 25 years ago. Seriously, no woman needs a bra fitting every 4 weeks (maternity non lingerie as the exception).
A bra fitting “experience” as fun as a gyno appointment is NOT a eventful traffic draw. A back of store large boudoir dressing room to try on things for your boyfriend is alot more fun, and no booze of food needed (as those destroy silk fabrics). I’d take a custom appointment any day, as long as it’s not a “fitting” which is about size size size, instead of the enjoyment of wearing lingerie.