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Impossible Conversations At The Met

May 22, 2012

By Layla L’Obatti

On May 10th a new MET fashion exhibit opened, featuring the work of Miuccia Prada alongside what some consider her modern day counterpart Elsa Schiaparelli.

 

For this column I’ll focus on the latter, Schiaparelli. Her name may not be as internationally known as her one time “rival” Chanel, but this Italian designer with a heavy Surrealist influence has left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Her work, often based on collaborations with artists, most notably Salvador Dali, will be sure to influence a new generation of designer. I believe her more commercially viable designs featuring tromp l’oeil have an interesting connection to today’s modern print technology.  Even before her exhibit we have begun to see “printed lace” and other tromp l’oeil designs emerge everyday as advancements in digital and engineered prints expand our ability to play with realism and even surrealism.  A key characteristic of successful tromp l’oeil is its ability to infuse functional fashion with the whimsy and irony of art, and with the MET platform we may see these trends emerging on catwalks in the seasons following this exhibit. Schiaparelli used tromp l’oeil with the proper bit of tongue in cheek in everything from hats that look like shoes to perfume bottles and “scarves knitted into sweaters”.   The breadth of work her designs cover will be of interest to everyone from ready to wear, knitwear and accessory designers to packaging and print artists.

 

More interesting to some than the period pieces and their historical and current relevance, will be their pairing and juxtaposition alongside what some may consider Schiaparelli’s modern day counterpart, Miuccia Prada.  The pairing draws on some striking similarities in their work, their viewpoints, and to me the titles of different portions of the exhibit: “ugly chic”, “the surreal body” gives a hint at how the curators plan to lay out the exhibit as well what parallels they will draw between the work of these two prolific designers.

The exhibit will be open to the public between May 10th and August 19th at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, for more information:

 
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Lingerie That Lingers

Here we take an entertaining look at the lingerie and undergarments from yesteryear and now.

 

CONTRIBUTORS INCLUDE:
 
Michelle Metens, Owner of Dollhouse Bettie, San Francisco CA
 
Ellen Lewis, Publisher & Editor of Lingerie Briefs
 
Shirley Freeman, Creative Director of Lingerie Briefs
 
Layla L’obatti, designer and founder of Between the Sheets Lingerie
 
 

Lingerie That Lingers

 

Michelle Metens, Owner of San Francisco based Dollhouse Bettie, has over a decade in the industry. Starting out as a premier online source for pristine quality deadstock, Dollhouse Bettie quickly became a celebrated name in the vintage lingerie world.
 
In 2007 Michelle and husband Eric added a brick and mortar location on historic Haight St. The store featured authentic vintage, Michelle’s hand sewn micro productions, and an assortment of classic styles. The store quickly caught the attention of locals and press, earning multiple “Best of the City” awards.
 
Since 2005 Michelle has worked with both domestic and overseas contractors on her original designs. The ultimate outcome? A 2400 square foot production and design space in the heart of downtown SF. The boutique on Haight Street now features Dollhouse Bettie’s original styles, and is still punctuated by rare vintage and complementary brands.
 
Michelle and her team use their vintage archives as inspiration, incorporating elements of timeless glamour into the line, all while implementing full scale domestic vertical production within the walls of Dollhouse Bettie’s San Francisco atelier. With the increased popularity of the in house designs, Michelle now offers her collections to wholesale accounts. Dollhouse Bettie designs can be found at select retailers, in the San Francisco boutique and online at www.dollhousebettie.com.