By TINA WILSON
The Red Carpet was not just any red carpet. The 2020 Underfashion Club Femmy Gala, from the moment the doors of Cipriani 42nd street opened, was different. Perhaps it was the fierce elegance of our performer extraordinaire emcee Nona Hendryx posing for photos or the irrepressible charm of Tony Award-winning Broadway legend Irene Gandy arranging the guests for their photographs like the pro that she is. Or perhaps it was the gracious way Cyndi Lauper took to the stage to sing with her friend Nona, an impromptu bar of Voulez-vous coucher avec moi, ce soir?For those of you wondering what is a Femmy, it is a statue and an event in the intimate apparel industry given by the Underfashion Club. We have it every year, but this year was very special.
It is an event where we all come together to honor our industry leaders and to raise money for students in the intimate apparel field through scholarships.… ...Read more
By HOLLY JACKSON
There are days when I feel like most of the women I know are anxious. It’s everywhere, even at the Curve show in NYC where several of us discussed various forms of eco-anxiety and the stress that comes from running a business as a woman. Many of us battle various forms of anxiety on a weekly or daily basis and find nothing but platitudes in response.
The Underargument is a brand that is in some ways more about the message than about the lingerie. This isn’t to say that the lingerie isn’t worthy: Their sumptuous fabrics in classic jewel tones are beautifully finished and would be at home in any high end boutique. The brand is interested in something more than nice undergarments though. They describe their pieces as “wearable reminders advocating the power of individuality”. Each collection features an empowering name:
For awesome // Against Perfection
For sexy // Against Sexism
For identity // Against stereotypes
For love // Against Oblivious
Their marketing is also based around these four statements that women find themselves encountering in difficult ways in their everyday lives.… ...Read more
By ELLEN LEWIS
Last week, post Paris shows, I recapped my impressions of Interfilière , which focuses on color, prints, materials and major messages that will affect Intimate Apparel design in the future. The exposition takes us into the 2021 design timeline. Today, I zero in on the Salon International de la Lingerie, which runs in tandem with Interfilière and targets actual product ready for the AW 2020 retail season. These two Fairs precede the NY Curve show which we will review in the next few weeks. My objective is inspiration and the identification of merchandise that can make a difference to a buyer’s bottom line. What does that mean? It means that we need to determine what the consumer really wants: of course the practical, but also the emotional and fantastical. It’s an exercise in balance. There are many digital options available now for this task but experiencing the product and people behind the brands always makes a difference.… ...Read more
By ALISON CONNOLLY
La Chatte de Francoise is a panty brand that specializes in “slow fashion, only for cool girls”. And really, what’s more cool than being a sustainable fashion brand these days? As Ellen has pointed out time and time again in her trend forecasting posts, the concept of sustainability is here to stay.
La Chatte de Francoise was founded in 2013 by musician and DJ Marine Neuilly. She describes her brand as “the 21st century love child of Andy Warhol and Simone de Beauvoir” and she designs not just panties, but (wet) t-shirts, socks, scrunchies, condoms and more! All of her panty or “culotte” designs are handmade in Paris utilizing upcycled fabrics. Due to the nature of this production method, all items are limited edition or small batch.
Founder Neuilly represents so much more than her cheeky punk label as she also collaborates professionally as an art director, photographer and magazine guest editor (for Please!… ...Read more
By ELLEN LEWIS
Reviewing last years recap of the Paris Interfilière Fair, it is quite evident that this year the message has not changed. It has only intensified. The critical movement in fashion is sustainability and the challenges for the Lingerie Industry are substantial. This exposition emphasized the importance of technology for every material that informs Intimate Apparel development. Wrapped together with this global quest is the heightened priority of communication with the consumer, understanding who she is and recognizing the mindset of the empowered woman. The show had several incredibly informative conferences and panel discussions on these subjects, many organized under the aegis of Jos Berry, whose Concepts Paris team created showstopping, eye opening fabric and trend forums. And as always, Jos’s VIP presentation was the highlight.
A few of the key points I culled from the event: The color palette is dominated by blue and green which infused much of the color card, including roses, purples, pinks and reds.… ...Read more