Fashion Illustrations

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One Legging at A Time

August 20, 2017

By TINA WILSON

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

I ADORE LEGGINGS! They can be a dresses’ best friend or a t-shirt’s worst nightmare.  When I first started wearing leggings way back in the day when hair was poufy and high; they came in one length, they had no tummy control, they couldn’t heat you up or cool you down and they had no pockets.  The only holes in them were caused by your thighs rubbing together and they mostly came in Black.  Leggings were supposedly not worn by the ‘fashionable’ crowd and mocking someone for wearing them outside of the gym was not uncommon.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Fast forward to today and you have a 500+ person wait list for Bandier’s Ultracor Star Legging. I must admit while I think they are fun, I am a bit baffled, especially at a price tag of just under 200$.  I love all things Stella McCartney and her Adidas collection is no exception but the influx of luxe legging competitors must be having an impact on sales. Even the European couture collections are have legging fever.  Perusing The Cut app on my IPad, I spied the most amazing Versace beaded legging paired with a jacket, talk about a hybrid! Speaking of hybrids (you may get sick of me mentioning this word over the coming months), Balmain has a boot so sexy and so crotch grazing high that seen from the right angle it appears to be a legging… a BootlegJ?…. sorry I couldn’t help myself.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Of course most of us cannot or will not spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on a pair of leggings but that does not mean we must settle.  I recently acquired a pair of Commando Faux Leather leggings and while in the past I would have sworn not be caught dead in a pair of leather pants, these are very different…and when the weather cools down a bit, you will find me living in them.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Spanx now has a shrine to leggings in some major department stores and I must admit the Camouflage printed pair tempted me but the rack that held them in Bloomingdales was thinning out and my size was gone; it was the subtle darkness of the print that made them wearable, desirable and every day.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Where do we legging lovers go from here?  I recently bought a pair of flared leggings in Zara, and I love them but I have come to the conclusion they are not right for my body type; but I see potential in treating leggings like other apparel, by giving them different proportions like wide flares and combining them more with other garments…I love my legging skirts, and hope to find more like them, can you hear me Athleta?

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

In conclusion I want to explore why leggings are so loved, it is because, they grow when your body grows? They shrink when you do? They can be worn with just about everything? They pack well? They are season-less? They make us look athletic? They make us feel athletic? All of the above perhaps? Figuring this out is the key to evolving this retail gem. Whatever the reason for their popularity I am grateful and I have only one request, can someone please come up with a nicer name?  I am working on it, stay tuned!

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

tina@marronage.com

 

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The Hybridization of Design

August 6, 2017

By TINA WILSON

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie BriefsI believe by the turn of this century there will no longer be categories of clothing, no sportswear, no intimates, no outerwear, we will have 7 articles of clothing, period …I will be dust by then and it’s probably just as well but in the meantime I will happily prepare for the inevitable and so should any forward thinking designer or retailer of apparel.

hy•brid (ˈhaɪ brɪd) n.

1. the offspring of two animals or plants of different breeds, varieties, or species, esp. as produced
through human manipulation for specific genetic characteristics.

2. a person produced by the interaction or crossbreeding of two unlike cultures, traditions, etc.

3. anything derived from unlike sources, or composed of disparate or incongruous elements; composite.

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

My current fascination is the garment hybrid, I see the makings of them everywhere, I am constantly compiling photos of innocent strangers, wearing innovative and sometimes bizarre combinations of clothing that inspire me.  I want to create the 21st century wardrobe. I accosted a woman in the subway earlier this year who was wearing half (only the back half, no front) of a long leather skirt with leggings and sneakers and she looked incredible, she told me she was wearing Comme des Garcon, I could not tell if she was just leaving work, going to the gym or on her way to cocktails.  And speaking of leather, Commando’s new bodysuit is one example of genius, saleable hybridization. It’s meant to be seen and the raw cut faux leather bodice combined with their signature fabric panty is soft and supple making this bodysuit an outerwear piece that is intimate and flawless. Using unexpected yet familiar fabrics in unexpected but familiar silhouettes is one of my favorite ways to design and is its own form of hybridization.  

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

How many times have you worn something and wished you could run home and put on something else before going out in the evening, what if you had it on already and only had to reveal it? Le Mystere has created the Perfect 10 bra, a brilliant day-into-night combination of two bras in one that can be separated or not, expect to see many imitators.  Or Phillip Lim’s corset Tee, simple, white, easy with a little sexy thrown in, the perfect casual day into nightwear.

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

I will deny it if confronted with this, but I love leggings, I wish I could attach them to everything I own.  Why not re-purpose the legging and attach it to your nightshirt?

And don’t get me started on all the places I’d love to have pockets…The possibilities for reinventing our wardrobe and ourselves have no limits.  Start your own list.

Pajama + chemise
Legging + dress
T-shirt + scarf
Shorts + leggings
Pajama + sweat suit
Panty + bra
Cardigan + tank top
Bodysuit + pajama
Bodysuit + kimono 😉
Pantyhose + bralet
Designer + illustrator + aspirational cook + blogger

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

Reinvention, hybridization and re-purposing are words often used lately and it is because of the uncertainty of the present.  We are living in times of fear and fear will ultimately lead to hesitation. Those of us in the world of retail fashion are feeling vulnerable and unsure of the future.  There was a time when freelance consultants lived with this fear but it has consumed everyone, most of my fashion friends with full time jobs live in trepidation of losing them, but it is times like these where we must open our eyes, shine, reinvent and retain the optimism.  I may sound a bit “Pollyannaish” but I have no choice, I cannot create under a cloud. Not having a full time gig recently is teaching me to be fearless, it is a work in progress and I am relishing it.

For all you nay-sayers, just remind yourself of one of the largest companies in the world and perhaps the best known…they reinvented our phone, our radio, our camera and our TV into one device and named themselves after a piece of fruit.

Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

*for more illustrated hybrids over the coming weeks please go to tinadesignchef@instagram

 

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Summer Whites

July 16, 2017

By TINA WILSON

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

As much as I am loving the summer, I’m rather looking forward to Fall and all it brings…but wait not so fast.  Let’s talk about the color white, this is the best time of year to wear it, whether it be a crisp cool shirt or an off the shoulder ruffled top (wish I had a dollar for every one of those I see on the street) or anything in crinkled gauze embroidery.  It’s also about to get thoroughly nasty, clammy and exceptionally smelly here in NYC as we approach August, I can feel it and as incongruous as it is to wear white in that scenario, it really does keep you cool and it gives the perception of being clean and put together.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

With white comes a few old rules that seem archaic now, one being you must wear nude underwear when wearing white.  And yes I was one of those people who gawked and sometimes rolled my eyes at women who wore white pants and any color but nude underwear, but I’ve matured, I don’t do that anymore.  In fact, I have a new perspective…. show it all off, throw caution to that summer breeze and wear whatever the hell color you want underneath and you sure as heck shouldn’t care anymore if you straps show.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

I have only a few statistics but it’s safe to say strapless bras are selling like hot cakes since the off the shoulder/cold shoulder/bare shoulder look has taken over society.  Why else would Wacoal’s Red Carpet strapless bra have reached a number one position for all bras selling today in the USA? It is the first strapless bra in history to attain this ranking. Convention tells me to suggest a strapless or a bandeau be worn under such looks but I prefer a bra with straps that are in your face, that are pretty and bold, and one of the prettiest for summer is any style from the Avero group by Marie Jo, the “daisy-like” guipure straps are worth showing off.  An equally pretty strap adorns Simone Perele’s Andora Spacer or Demi.

Tina Wilson Fashion illustration Wacoal Red Carpet Strapless Bra on Lingerie Briefs

Tina Wilson Fashion illustration Simone Perele Andora Bra Bra on Lingerie Briefs

If you want to be daring and show more cleavage than your mom raised you to show, I would try one of I.D. Sarrieri’s lace bandeaus such as the Jamais Le Premier or Juliette Dans La Nuit .  Frankly they are somewhat pricey but they are gorgeous, and for all that money, they should have full exposure, I like them worn with a really deep V T-shirt or his favorite button down, not buttoned at all but tied at the waist, it doesn’t get much sexier than that

Tina Wilson Fashion illustration on Lingerie Briefs

I have always admired the blindingly bright shades of Deborah Marquit bras, her fluorescent Persian Lily or French Tulle 50’s bras cry out to be seen in summer, I want to see them peeking from beneath and even through sheer long white shirts to the ankle or perhaps a whisper light sundress made of gauze.  They are the perfect summer accessory.

Tina Wilson Fashion illustration of Deborah Marquit on Lingerie Briefs

Initially nude was not be a color choice for this topic and then I saw the prettiest nude  I’ve seen in a very long time, Spanx has the glorious new Spotlight on Lace group with a high waist brief and a bralet I adore.  But it’s the color that drew me to it, Vintage Rose, a pinky nude you shouldn’t be afraid to show, wear it as “body stocking” layer under a see thru white lace dress and have them guessing is she or isn’t she.Tina Wilson Fashion illustration of Spanx on Lingerie Briefs

It’s summer, it’s sweltering and soon enough you will be wrapped in scarves, bundled in parkas and strutting in boots, now is the time to show off your undies.

 

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In the Realm of Our Senses

June 25, 2017

By TINA WILSON

Tina Wilson sketches Christine Vancouver silk on Lingerie Briefs

Beware…this will be one of those “all over the place” blogs but if I am successful I will spur a bit of sensory curiosity.  Last week I took a chance and registered for a seminar given by Trend Union with the special guest being a fascinating woman named Betony Vernon, a self-described “sexual anthropologist”.  We were a small group who gathered in a West Village Brownstone garden, drinking wine on the nearby river as the sun started its slow descent. I admit I had never heard of Betony but the evening sounded interesting and I thought “why the hell not?”.  Rather than explain who she is, I invite you to google her and explore on your own.  I mention her because she inspired me to get in touch with my senses.

Tina Wilson illustrates silk pajamas from Ginia, Olivia Von Halle and Ascenso on Lingerie Briefs

Betony was wearing the most gorgeous belted pale blue silk pajamas of her own design, and as you got closer to her you could not help but reach out and touch the fabric.  There are many sleepwear brands who focus on buttery silk fabrics that you want to embrace such as Christine Vancouver, NK iMode, Ginia, Asceno and Olivia Van Halle. Touch has become the mantra of all brands and all categories of apparel, everyone wants “soft”, I’m a bit weary of hearing the word soft as if it’s something new and unusual… as if the sense of touch has been heightened in all of us while our other senses suffer.

Tina Wilson illustrates NK iMode on Lingerie Briefs

Lingerie can comfort us, keep us warm, give us modesty and perhaps even prevent shame (the origin of shame was one topic of the evening’s discussion) and last but never least…. be seductive.  What we wear can stimulate our sense of touch and our sense of sight, but why not stimulate our sense of hearing, smell, and taste while we are wearing our intimates?

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Smell is the sense that is most associated with memory.  I have a heightened sense of smell and my mood can be instantly affected by scent.   Ylang Ylang, Rose, Patchouli, Lemon, and Cedarwood are just a few of the intoxicating essential oils I love that chase away the blues.  One can go from morbid to elated when presented with the right scent. There are many oils out there, make sure you go for therapeutic grade, they are unadulterated and pure like Young Living. And no moment is complete without music.  We all have a song we associate with a particular lover, whether it turned out to be a horror story or a love story, and hearing that song can sometimes lead us to rewrite history.  A particular favorite of mine is I Didn’t Know What Time It Was” by Cecile McLorin Salvant and one of the best covers ever…Cassandra Wilson singing Cyndi Lauper’s “Time After Time”.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

In these moments I envision seven pieces of heaven, seven pieces of washed silk charmeuse so soft that if you stood perfectly still they would slide right off your body and on to the floor.  A thigh high slit slip-dress with a sliver of a strap that is tied to be untied, the briefest of briefs and a side draped camisole with a long full leg pant with pockets; we must always have pockets.  For lounging, a shirt that is slightly oversized, to the knee and detailed enough to be mistaken for a blouse.  Never be without a caftan, it will take you from cocktails to slumber if need be.  And last but not least, the wrap, that piece you leave by the side of the bed if you sleep naked; you will thank me once the morning sun comes streaming in;-), as you are having croissants and raspberries in bed, listening to that love song while leaning against your rose stained pillow…..

Respect to those of you who recognize the origin of the title of this blog, you know who you are.

 

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Fashion Illustrations by Tina Wilson ~ Hosiery’s “Love Child”

May 29, 2017

By TINA WILSON

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Seamless intimate apparel is the “lovechild” of hosiery and lingerie. It’s also the name of one of my favorite songs by the Supremes.  I’ve taken note over the years how powerful lingerie companies like Spanx and Commando have entered the hosiery market. Melding the technology of hosiery machines with the design detail of lingerie has become lucrative and without the yarns and technology developed by the hosiery industry shapewear would be all seams and discomfort.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

In my early days while I shopped in Europe I was a hosiery junkie, buying Fogal and Wolford hosiery every time I touched down in London or Paris.  These two brands in particular were pioneers and introduced me to luxury for the legs.  I love Fogal for their colors, superb quality and the packaging, I’m a sucker for  beautiful design. I am making a beeline to Fogal’s new Bloomingdales 59TH street NYC shop! I see a boon for smartly colored hose and leggings in the making!

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

Wolford was and is on the forefront of technology and price-wise not for the faint of heart. I was in Saks recently ogling their long seamless tube dress, oh to be 6ft tall, skinny and own it in every shade. Wolford is masterful in creating hosiery hybrids to be worn as clothing and accessories, I believe there is still unchartered territory here.

Wolford tube dressing sketched by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

We live in a time of fashion hybrids…pants have skirts attached, camisoles have bras attached, sneakers are part sock, jackets are capes, robes are coverups, pajamas are evening-wear and your pantyhose is your “girdle”…one day your hat will be your glove! No silhouette is sacred, anything goes, it’s exciting and it’s frightening, but change we must, if we as an industry are to survive.

Tina Wilson Fashion Illustrations on Lingerie Briefs

The machines that produced hosiery are the machines that birthed the machines that produce the endless sea of seamless dressing that is now everyday wear. Though these garments are commonplace , they are not boring.  American brands like Hue, and most recently Free People as well as the gazillion active wear brands are doing a fantastic job of creating leggings, slips, camisoles, and/or activewear using the Santoni technology.

Free People Slip, Hue Seamless shapping & Spanx Hi waisted mid thigh short sketched by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

There was a time not long ago when the hosiery market suffered greatly, many women stopped wearing hosiery and wearing pants became more commonplace at work. I also stopped wearing pantyhose and about 8 years ago started wearing leggings under my dresses, it made me feel more casual and allowed more shoe options. I still have a sock fetish but I want to be lured back to wearing hosiery and I look forward to the innovation some of these brands will put forth, seeing how hosiery brands evolve as our wardrobes become ever more casual is the big challenge…a challenge I believe our American brands and our European allies are up to!

 

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WE WANT ANOTHER REVOLUTION

May 14, 2017

By TINA WILSON

WE WANT ANOTHER REVOLUTION

R-E-V-O-L-U-T-I-O-N-A-R-Y……say the word out loud. How does it make you feel?  It gives me goosebumps because it describes people who are fearless, radical, avant-garde, inspirational and on the forefront of a movement to make things better for all of us, whether it be political or creative.  I went to the Brooklyn Museum to see the Georgia O’Keefe exhibit, and happened upon another exhibit entitled “WE WANT A REVOLUTION”, about Black women artists in the 60’s and 70’s and it made me wonder if I’d ever been a part of a revolution or is my time yet to come.

Original Art by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

Revolutionaries are often forgotten or never acknowledged for their contributions, but their impact is nonetheless felt. When we think of shapewear we think of Spanx, but few remember that it was Donna Karan that invented many of the attributes of controlling a woman’s body so tight as to conceal her unwanted flesh…….long before Spanx.  I know because I was there, and to see Donna slip her body into a 10” tube and show you that she can still breath and move is to see passion, obsession and genius at work.

Original Art by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

Calvin Klein, a contemporary and a friend of Donna Karan, revolutionized gender based underwear. There are many imitators but it is undisputed that Calvin and his men’s and women’s underwear was and still is…a revolution.  You can debate all day long about whether his early ads with Brooke Shields and Mark Wahlberg or the infamous logo waistband was the genius behind the brand, but I can tell you I will never forget seeing those early photos pinned to his office wall, listening to him as he studied them and planned his empire.

Original Fashion Sketches by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

Sometimes a revolution is an idea brought forth by a community of talent, such as the mission  statement behind the success of Wacoal and many of its still standing bras designed years ago….
-To create the highest quality best fitting garment for the American consumer.
-To provide a level of customer service to assure that the consumer gets the correct 
style and size.
-To market and sell this merchandise at regular price every day.

Many of iconic bras by Wacoal were conceptualized by Alan Fisher and his staff of designers, some of the most talented people in our industry. The Awareness and Body by Wacoal Collections in particular have defied time and are still going strong….. an effective revolution never ends.

Original Art by Tina Wilson on Lingerie Briefs

A revolution can be started by a retail phenomenon like Victoria’s Secret or a star that wears her underwear on stage like Madonna or creating an iconic thong from lace like Hanky Panky does so masterfully. LaPerla has revolutionized extravagant beauty, and if you doubt me just stop by their store and view the 10K bra made of gold threads. Fashion Forms with Anne Deal at the helm has revolutionized how we hold up and shape our breasts without a bra. And let us not forget Commando.

Time will bear witness to whether online stars like Adore Me or ‘period panty’ innovators like THINX and Skin with their clean aesthetic will be remembered as revolutionary, I sincerely hope they do. I believe we are in urgent need of another revolution…..are you ready to participate or to start your own?

 

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FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS

TINA WILSON

 

 
Tina Wilson began her career in intimate apparel graduating from Parsons School of Design after receiving a full scholarship. While in her first design job at Christian Dior Lingerie she was personally selected by as Head Designer to work on the launch of Calvin Klein Underwear, the legendary minimalist brand he created. Tina was and remains the only designer ever hired by Calvin Klein personally for this position.
 
Following 4 successful years at Calvin Klein, Tina joined the Josie Natori Company, where she became the designer for the new contemporary division.  After 5 years with Natori, the opportunity arose to be Design Director for the launch of Donna Karan Intimates. Tina was selected by Donna Karan and worked for the licensee Wacoal America for the next 12 years, where she worked intimately with Donna conceiving, fitting, and merchandising her iconic bras, underwear, shape wear, yogawear and sleepwear.
 
She was the creator of Wacoal’s “Controlfreak”, a new concept of shapewear, designed and fit according to a woman’s body type. It is a patented concept committed to everyday comfort and is the first “custom fit” shapewear brand.
 
Since leaving Donna Karan Intimates at Wacoal, Tina has worked for the largest privately owned intimate apparel company in America, Komar/Carole Hochman designing many of their intimate brands, among them, Ralph Lauren, On Gossamer, Ellen Tracey, Donna Karan, Betsey Johnson, Oscar De La Renta and Lucky Brand. She is currently an independent consultant and partner in the company Marronage, specializing in fashion design and illustration.
 
Tina Wilson is a board member of the Underfashion Club, a non profit organization dedicated to awarding scholarships to FIT students in the intimate apparel field. She is known for her personal vision and her commitment to education in fashion.
 
VISIT TINA WILSON’S WEBSITE FOR MORE…
 
 
 

THE MARDINEY GROUP
 
 
tina@marronage.com
917 488-4888